Installation Instructions & Guidelines

7000 Series Flush Fin Window Installation Instructions

AAMA Installation Method for New Construction

Patio Door Installation Instructions for New Construction

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Paramount Windows
Flush Fin Window Installation Guide

Congratulation on your decision to purchase Paramount’s “ECO-View” flush fin vinyl window system. Paramount products are designed to afford you outstanding value and performance that will last a lifetime. The ECO-View window system is no exception. ECO-View meets or exceeds ENERGY STAR’S performance standard in all zones within the Continental United States and has earned AAMA certification with a light commercial rating of (LC25). The following Installation Instructions are generic in nature and are intended to be a basic guide through a normal installation. There are many types and brands of windows out there and no one guide can address them all. Ok, let’s get started.

How to measure for your new windows:

Measurements must be taken to determine daylight opening sizes and to ensure squareness.  To determine the daylight opening size, three measurements must be taken horizontally between the pre-existing jambs at the corners and at the center, recording the smallest dimension. Three measurements shall also be taken vertically from the pre-existing sill to the head at the corners and at the center, recording the smallest dimension. Next determine squareness of the opening by cross taping the window from one corner to another diagonally across the pre-existing window. Repeat the process on the opposite corner and record the difference. The accuracy of size is critical. Sizing should allow for proper fit without having to rack or force your new ECO-View window into the daylight opening. The new window should be approximately ¼” smaller in height and width than the daylight opening. You may have to make additional adjustments to the size to compensate for out of square conditions. You are now ready to place your order.

Step 1. When the new Paramount ECO-View windows arrive be sure to measure each one and verify the size is correct before attempting to remove the existing window. Once the old window has been removed, it’s too late to start over.

Step 2. Begin the removal of the old window. Start by taking out the moving sash or vented portion of the window. Then take out the fixed or non moving section. With sash removed, start taking out the center bar. This can be done a number of ways but the most common method is to remove the attaching screws and forcefully knock one end of the center bar loose with a hammer and then pull it out of the frame. At this point you should be left with a clear opening space surrounded by the main frame of the old window. This frame will stay in place through the rest of the installation process.

Step3. Pre fit the retrofit window in the opening. Square and shim as necessary for a level, plumb and square installation. Secure window with shims and check for proper operation and locking. Remove the window from the opening. If necessary trim the exterior flush fin to properly fit your application.

Step 4. Apply a liberal (3/8”) continuous bead of a quality silicone based caulking to the mounting surfaces of the old window across the head and down the jambs. An adequate amount of sealant should be applied to compensate for irregularities in the wall surface as is common with stucco or block exteriors. This will ensure a proper seal between the old window frame and the flush fin of the new ECO-View window. Next, apply the caulking to the sill of the old frame being extra careful not to caulk over the existing weep holes. These will need to function as originally intended and is a crucial step in preventing water intrusion. If no weep holes are present as with a fixed window, be certain to leave a gap in the caulking applied to the sill about 3” in from each end. The gaps should be approximately 1” long.

Step 5. Once again, place the retrofit window back in the opening. Push firmly to make contact with the caulking on the old frame thus creating a primary seal between the old frame and your new ECO-View window. With this step complete it would be a good idea to once again shim the widow in place and check for proper fitment and operation. Be certain to check for square, plumb and level condition before proceeding to Step 6.
 
Step 6. Secure the new ECO-View window in the opening. Screw through the retrofit window, the old window fram, and the shims at both the head and the jambs and anchor into the surrounding wall structure. The installation screws should be spaced so that they are no closer than 3” to each corner and no more than 10” in from each corner and a maximum of 16” on center. Be careful not to over tighten the screws as it may bend or warp the vinyl frame. Warning, do not screw through the sill of the old window or the new ECO-View window as this may result in water intrusion.

Step 7. The ECO-View flush fin window has a caulking ground built right in to the perimeter edge of the flush fin itself. This void in the edge of the frame is designed to accept a secondary seal, again using a quality silicone based caulk. Applying the secondary seal is a very necessary step to ensure a water tight bond between the new window and the wall surface. Do not apply caulking to the bottom of the flush fin. Any moisture that may get trapped behind the new installation has to have a way to escape. Remember, we had to leave a gap at the sill for water to drain out, so the same logic applies to the outside of the flush fin.

Step 8. Your new ECO-View window comes with an interior trim piece that is designed to fill the void between the edge of the window and the sheet rock on the interior of the opening. You may want to fill the void first with backer rod or foam rope prior to attaching the trim pieces. Measure and cut the head and sill trim pieces first. Peel back the face on the two sided tape and stick it to the frame of the new window. This should cover the gap completely and be tight to the sheet rock. Repeat this process for the jambs.

Step 9. The final step in the process is to apply a finish bead of quality latex caulk to the trim piece where it meets the sheet rock. Now you have a clean finished look. Below, you'll see a graphic representation of what a normal finished installation should look like as viewed from the side.

Congratulations again. You have completed your installation and are now ready to enjoy the benefits of having a truly energy efficient window system that will last you a lifetime. Thank you again for your decision to purchase Paramount Windows. “Quality for Life”

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Paramount Windows
Patio Door Installation Guide

1. The door rough opening must be within 3/8" of the rough opening specified and the concrete must be no more than 1/4" out of level.
2. Remove the frame from its packaging and assemble the frame with the 1 1/4" galvanized roofing nails provided in the hardware package.
3. Seal the frame on the exterior side of all four joints with clear silicone.
4. Apply a 3/8" bead of butyl caulking to the back side of the door frame nail flange and across the door opening where the sill of the frame will be in the center of the bead of caulking.
5. Apply 9" flashing along both jambs extending 8 1/2" above the opening down to the bottom of the green plate.
6. Set the complete frame in the opening, making sure that the door is plumb, level and square, shimming as needed.
7. Fasten the nail flange no more than 16" on center and no closer than 3" but no further than 6" from each corner.
8. Apply a bead of caulking at the joint of the nail flange to stud framing on the 2 jambs and at the header to head flange connection. Caulk over all screw heads that are used to fasten the nail flanges to stud framing.
9. Apply the 9" flashing across the header of the door extending to or past the jamb flashing on both sides and secure.
10. Fasten the inside of both jambs with the supplied 2" truss head screws, 12" in from the head and sill, and one each at 36" x 43" lining up with the door handle. These screws get installed in the vent channel of the jamb. Make sure to use a level to ensure that the jambs are straight and plumb.
11. Raise the wheels on the vent panels about 3/4 of the way up (or until you have approximately a 1/4" clearance under panel) and install the panel in the vent track which would be the one toward the inside of the house. Adjust the rollers so that you have an even reveal on both jambs. You can check this by sliding the panel next to the lock side jamb.
12. Center the vent panel in the frame and slide the felt weather strip on the sill over to the fixed panel side approximately 1" away from the jamb. Make sure that the head weather strip is in the same position.
13. Apply clear caulking along the entire joint of the sill to jamb connection. Be sure to seal the vertical surface up the back edge of the inside leg as well.
14. Install the fixed panel in the track keeping it 1" from the jamb. Slide the fixed panel into jamb. This can be achieved by firmly pushing the edge of the panel toward the jamb. Fasten with the black #6 x 5/8 Phillips head screws supplied in the hardware pack through the jamb into the fixed panel on the interior side. One at the top and bottom rails and the rest spaced equally between.
15. Install one truss head screw in the center of the vent track into the header.
16. Remove truss head jamb screw at the 43" height on the fixed jamb, install the screw through the supplied door bumper and reinstall.
17. Install the handle set provided, checking the operation of the lock and once again the reveal of the door.
18. Apply another bead of caulking at the sill/concrete joint on the interior side going up each jamb to stud joint 4 to 6 inches.

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